Friday, 15 April 2016

Celtic Spirituality Pilgrimage, Day 12: Iona

St. David's Episcopal Church
Celtic Spirituality Pilgrimage
led by
Ken and Darlene Swanson

Day 12, April 15th: Iona

Today was the long anticipated culmination of our pilgrimage--the Island of Iona.  Up very early, we drove from Edinburgh across the Trossochs (the southwestern Highlands of Scotland) to Oban, where we caught the ferry to Craignure on the Island of Mull.  Then we drove on a single lane road (with passing turnoffs) to the very tip of Mull to catch the ferry to Iona.  It was a crystal clear, sunny day, but with a fierce north wind that kept us bundled up tight while we were outside.


Approaching Iona.


St. Columba (Columcille in Gaelic) sailed with 12 companions from Ireland 563 A.D. and landed on Iona, a tiny island in the Inner Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland.  Many scholars of Christian spirituality consider Iona to be not just a "thin place" (where the separation between heaven and earth is tissue "thin"), but one of the "thinnest" places on earth.  Scots refer to Iona simply as Holy Island.  Columba established what many believe is the most important monastery in the history of Christianity.  He was an Irish prince, the great great grandson of the High King, who had devoted his life to Christ.  He was tall, robust and handsome, with a powerful voice and compelling personality.


Since the time of Columba, there has been an active community of prayer on Iona, almost without a break, for over 1500 years.  The present abbey buildings were rebuilt in the 20th century.


Buffeted by the wind, our pilgrims trudged up the road from the pier to the abbey.


Pilgrims entering the abbey.



Mary, a local guide, talked with us in the nave of the monastery church about Columba and the history of the monastery.


That was followed by a teaching from Ken in the abbey Chapter House on Columba.


Along with Sts. Patrick, Brigid and Aidan, Columba is the greatest of the Celtic saints.  He was a fearless evangelist, taking the gospel to the pagan Scots in the south and west of Scotland, and the  violent pagan Picts in the north and east. He was so blessed by the Holy Spirit, at the end of his life, all of Scotland was becoming Christian.  


What was most remarkable about Columba was the joy and love of God that emanated from his being and person.  People flocked to be near him because he was so winsome and charismatic.  When he was alone in solitude and quiet, wild animals would surround him, laying peacefully at his feet.  He was an outstanding scribe, and loved to be in the monastery scriptorium, copying out beautiful manuscripts of the the Psalter and the Gospels.  He is often depicted holding a book or copying a biblical text. 


During his lifetime, Iona became the major pilgrimage site in Celtic Christianity as thousands wanted to be near and be blessed by him.  Kings came for his council and many kings are buried at Iona.  At the end of his life, Columba would retire to a cell on a hill near the monastery to pray for the monks in his care.  



Our pilgrims spent the remainder of the day in quiet meditation on the monastery grounds and in the beauty of the surrounding countryside.

The High Crosses.


Across the cloister.


Praying in the nave of the monastery church.


Through a nave window.


We returned to our hotel on Mull in the late afternoon, anticipating another time for prayer on Iona tomorrow.  






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